Introducing… DOOD
We talk to owner Jaf Ali about the inspiration behind his latest restaurant DOOD
Local fans of Indian cuisine will probably already know of Jaf Ali – or at least his restaurants Dabbawal and Khai Khai, both firm Newcastle favourites.
Now, Jaf is turning his hand to a different cuisine – Persian and Levantine, to be precise – with his latest venture DOOD. We caught up with him to find out a little more about the restaurant and what it brings to Newcastle’s dining scene.
DOOD is a concept long in the making, one that was brewing in Jaf’s mind for some time before it opened its doors on Newcastle’s Quayside this November.
“I used to go to London a lot and my favourite restaurant there was a place called Babaji that served Middle Eastern and Turkish cuisine,” explains Jaf. “There are hundreds of Turkish restaurants across the country but this one was branded really well. The aesthetics and the interior were premium and the food – kebabs, breads and salads – were very simple but incredibly tasty.”
“One day I went to the restaurant and it wasn’t there anymore – I was gutted!” he continues. “I said to myself ‘We have to bring that to Newcastle’.”
That was back in 2018 and Jaf took his time researching whether a high-end Middle Eastern restaurant would work in Newcastle before identifying a distinct gap in the local market.
“Middle Eastern cuisine is huge around the country. It’s massive in London, Manchester, Birmingham and Edinburgh and there are decent places dotted around Newcastle but when you look at the heart the city centre, there isn’t a premium Middle Eastern restaurant,” says Jaf. “In the six years since I first started thinking about DOOD, nothing close to it has moved into the city and we felt that there was a huge opportunity for that cuisine here.”
The decision to focus specifically on Persian and Levantine cuisine was actually influenced by Federico Khameneh, manager of Jaf’s High Bridge restaurant Dabbawal.
“Federico is Persian himself and kept talking about how amazing Persian food is,” says Jaf. “So we explored that part of Middle Eastern cuisine in that part of the world and our research took us to the Silk Road and the idea of marrying together Persian and Levantine cuisine.”
DOOD’s name is in fact a reference to its Silk Road inspiration, as Jaf explains.
“The Silk Road passed through mountainous terrain and far in the distance, and traders and travellers would see smoke which was a signal that a ‘caravanserai’ – a roadside inn, kind of like an old-fashioned service station – where they could park their camels and horses and get water and food was close by. In Farsi, the work ‘smoke’ directly translates as ‘DOOD’.”
And so DOOD was born, but bringing a restaurant serving high-end Persian and Levantine cuisine into fruition required the right person to lead the kitchen and Jaf found that person in acclaimed, award-winning chef Colin Clague.
“When we set up Khai Khai it led us to Alfred Prasad who, aged 29, became the youngest Indian chef to get a Michelin star,” says Jaf. “We wanted the same for DOOD’s chef – the best in class – which led us to Colin.”
Colin certainly brings a wealth of experience to DOOD, having worked at celebrated London restaurants including Zuma and the Michelin-starred Pollen Street Social alongside several acclaimed Dubai restaurants like Q’bara and Ruya, where he cooked up contemporary Arabesque and Anatolian cuisine.
“He’s worked at high-end, world-renowned restaurants and his level of cooking and knowledge is second to none,” enthuses Jaf. “We’re really privileged to be able to work with him and the menu he’s put together is amazing.”
The final piece of the puzzle was finding the right location for DOOD and Jaf and his team were lucky enough to find the gorgeous Quayside building formerly occupied by now closed restaurant Chart House.
“The building dates back to around 1750 and to find something which is nearly 300 years old that allowed us to marry together an aged building with our ancient cuisine was perfect,” explains Jaf.
As with securing the perfect chef, Jaf needed to hire the right interior designer to bring his vision for DOOD to life and found just what he was looking for in London-based studio Run For The Hills.
Owned by husband-and-wife team Chris Trotman and Anna Burles, the studio came up with a concept that beautifully merges the restaurant’s historic location and cuisine with contemporary touches, making the most of features like the building’s original brick walls and separating the restaurant into three distinct spaces – the Safar and Caravanserai dining rooms, both with sweeping views of the River Tyne, and the Al Khaima bar, which boasts a stunning Bedouin tent canopy.
The attention to design detail even extends to DOOD’s open kitchen which greets guests on arrival and houses a stone oven, a tandoor oven and a mangal grill – a type of Middle Eastern grill that Jaf assures us we won’t see anywhere else in the North East and that cooks up the juiciest meat.
“Everyone can see the fresh food being made, which I think is quite cool!” adds Jaf.
Of course, it’s all about the food at DOOD and its menu is testament to both chef Colin’s experience and the rich, diverse flavours of Persia and the Levant with an array of hot and cold mazeh, kebabs and khoresht (a type of Persian stew) to enjoy plus the chance to experience the ‘Bedouin’s Feast’ – a mix of dishes designed for family-style sharing.
Naturally, we had to ask Jaf which dishes he’d recommend to a first-time DOOD diner and he didn’t have to think twice.
“The hummus is probably our most popular dishe because it’s quite unique compared to other hummus,” says Jaf. “The jujeh kebab, succulent chicken marinated in lots of saffron, is delicious too and our chargrilled monkfish is a must-try. It’s a really unique recipe by Colin and the fish is caught locally in North Shields.”
And if local foodies need any more convincing that a meal at DOOD is a must?
“I think DOOD is unique to the city,” says Jaf. “We want to push the boundaries and bring something new to Newcastle and we’re really seeing the city embrace that.”
DOOD is located at 63 Quayside, Newcastle upon Tyne, NE1 3DE and is open from 12pm daily. For more information, visit www.thedood.co.uk.
Main image: Photo by Anna Miller
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